服装设计外文文献翻译

文献出处：Sukumar N, Gnanavel P, Ananthakrishnan T. Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics [J]. African Research Review, 2009, 3(3)：62-72.

原文

Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics

Sukumar ；Gnanavel. P. , Ananthakrishnan, T.

Abstract

Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than in one direction, When two-dimensional fabric are converted to three-dimensional garment form. In the present study, the effects of sewing of different seam were selected on different fabric and their behaviors were studied. In this study drape of ten fabrics are analyzed with three types of seams and three stitch densities. Sample without seam is a control sample and drape of seamed samples are compared with control sample to analyze the drape behavior of seamed fabrics. This paper presents a fundamental drape analysis of seamed fabrics using drape meter. Drape behavior is determined in terms of drape coefficient. The effect of seams on the drape coefficient and Drape profile has been made. Drape coefficients significantly differs between the fabrics and also between the seam stitch density combinations. Investigating drape on seamed fabrics can improve fabric end use application.

Key words: drape, computer aided design, seam, stitch density

Introduction

Drape is an important property that decides the gracefulness of any garment as it is relates to aesthetics of garments (Kaushal Raj sharma and B.K. Behera. 2005). The mechanical properties of fabrics were first studied during the late 19th century by German researchers working on developing airships (Postle, 1998). Drape ability has been regarded as a quantitative characteristic of cloth, and several devices as well as virtual systems have been developed to measure it (Booth, 1968; Jeong, 1998; Stylios and Wan, 1999). Instruments for measuring drape ability have been developed by Chu et al.(1950) and later by Cusick (1965, 1968) using a parallel light source that reflects the drape shadow of a circular specimen from hanging disc into a piece of ring paper at present numerous instruments, ranging from a simple cantilever bending tester to a dynamic drape tester developed for measuring fabric drape. During recent years, the investigation of fabric drape has attracted the attention of many researchers because of the attempts to realize the clothing Computer aided design (CAD) system by introducing the fabric properties, in which fabric drape is the key element. It is obvious that fabrics have to be sewn together for a garment to be formed. The seams of a garment affect the fabric drape greatly (Matsudaira, M. and Yang, M. 2000). It is unrealistic to realize the appearance of a garment system without the consideration of seams and the methods of assembling of fabrics into garments (Jinlian Hu et al, 1997).

When a fabric is draped; it can bend in one or more directions. Curtains and drapes usually bend in one direction, whereas garments and upholstery exhibit a

complex three-dimensional form with double curvature. Hence, fabric drape is a complex mathematical problem involving large deformations under low stresses (Postle, 1993).

A plain seam the most typical seam found extensively in apparel is the simplest type in which a single row of lock stitches joins two pieces of fabrics together. Thus, investigating the effect of a plain seam on fabric drape has a significant value for both the textile and clothing industries. The quantified drapeability of a fabric into a dimensionless value called a “Drape coefficient”, which is defined as the percent of the area from an angular ring of fabric covered by a vertical projection of the draped fabric (Brand R.H.1964). “Drape co efficient (DC)” the m ain parameter used to quantify fabric drape (Narahari Kenkare and Traci May-Plumlee. 2005). Though useful, it is insufficient to characterize complex forms such as garments. Stylios and Zhu, 1997 considered that the drape coefficient by itself did not capture the full aesthetic quality of the drape of a fabric.

Drape profile of fabrics with seams provide guidance for garment designs and producers in the apparel industry and improve the understanding of drape properties corresponding to different seam features (Fourt.L and Hollies.N.R.S.1970). Furthermore, we expect that the results will be useful in predicting garment drape with clothing CAD systems.

Different types of seams are used in garment making and also wide stitch densities are employed. Once the fabric is joined with seams possibly its drape configuration would vary.

The product range of textile industry has extended to the garments. Mass production of operational systems and automated sewing is making more and more presence, it is very essential to understand to the change in properties the fabric under goes once it is seamed. This study is an attempt to understand the effects of seams on the drape of fabrics, which is one of key characteristics for apparels and certain draperies.

Types of Seam

The types of seams were selected and in each type, three stitch densities were employed. Fabrics were sewn along the warp and weft direction on a 35cm square side. Control sample for the test is a piece with no seams. This resulted in 9 treatment combinations.

(1) Plain Seam (S1)

This is the most common seam used in the garment industry. This is easy to make and pliable. It is normally suitable for all types of garments. And, it is suitable for curved locations like armhole. To make this seam we have to place two pieces of fabrics to be joined together right sides facing, matching the seam lines, and we should stitch the seam exactly on the seam line.

(2) Welt Seam (S2)

For constructing this, we should stitch the plan seam and press both seam allowances to one si de. Then the inside seam allowance is trimmed to ”. Then top stitching is done on the right side of the garment by catching the wider seam allowance. This type is normally used on heavy coats.

(3) French seam (S3)

The French seam is stitched twice once from the right side and once from the wrong side. It is the classic seam for sheers and looks best if the finished width is” or less. To form this seam, with wrong sides of the fabric together, we should stitch 3/8” from the edge on the right side of the fabr ic. The seam allowance in trimmed to 1/8” and the seam is pressed well. Then the right sides are folded together with stitched line exactly on the edge of the fold and pressed again. Then the stitches are made” from the fold.

Conclusion

A study on effect of seams on the drape coefficient Drape profile is been made. Three types of seams namely three stitch densities 5, 4 and 3 per centimeter has been employed. Ten fabric verities containing different fibres weaves are analyzed. Drape coefficients significantly differs between the fabrics also between the seam stitch density combination.

The Drape Coefficient alone may not give a clean idea of real drape. For this purpose the drape profiles were generated with the help of radii measures. The drape profile has clearly indicating shapes that takes place with the seams put on. Seamed fabrics have generally shown more stabilized pattern compared to control samples.

Sateen weave followed by BHC MAT weave has shown highly symmetrical patterns. The seam has markedly improved drape profile of honeycomb fabric. Polyester, Polyester/Viscous fabrics have registered better drape profiles than Polyester/Cotton fabrics. Both the cotton gray casement has shown agreeable drape

profiles.

译文

接缝对面料褶皱效果的影响

库马尔；甘拉维尔；安娜斯克里斯兰

摘要

褶皱是服装面料的一个内在特性，这使得它能够优雅地挂在服装面料的表面，特别是当面料的有些区域需要用到褶皱的时候。褶皱有一个独特的属性，那就是它允许将织物以一个或多个方向弯曲，由此，可以将二维平面的服装织物转换为三维的服装形式，这样一来，服装的立体装饰感就会变得更强。在目前的研究中，有许多专家学者们对缝纫方法的选择进行了很多研究。在本文的这项研究中，主要分析了十面料褶皱设计，它含有三种类型的接缝和三针密度的缝线。选取一个没有接缝的样品作为一个参照样品，以用来对褶皱样本与参照样本进行一个比较分析。本文提出了一种基本的缝合织物褶皱分析。服装面料的褶皱行为可以通过悬垂系数显示出来，还有接缝对衣物面料中褶皱效果的影响。不同的褶皱面料之间的系数是显著不同的，它们的缝合密度之间也不同。通过对缝合织物的褶皱进行调查，可以提高未来的织物应用水平。

关键词: 褶皱；计算机辅助设计；接缝；缝合密度；

引言

褶皱是一个重要的属性，它决定了服装的优雅程度，因为它与服装美学是密切相关的(考沙尔和布哈拉，2005)。在19世纪末，德国的研究人员第一次研究织物的力学性能，这一研究的成果，（完整译文请到百度文库）后来还被用于其

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参考文献 [1]李平.面料再造的艺术表现力[J].服装设计师,2009，10 [2]艺术与设计[J].2011.05 [3]马慧颖,肖圣颖.浅谈环保主义影响下的服装设计[J].才智，2009，06 [4]李苏君,彭景荣.三宅一生与解构主义服装[J]. 美与时代2010, 01 [5]余建春.服装市场调查与预测[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2002 [6]服装设计师.月刊.[J] .服装设计师杂志社，2008.01 [7]肖文陵，李迎军．服装设计[M].北京：清华大学出版社,2006 [8]许星．服饰配件艺术[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2005 [9]罗森.魅力先生[J].青年与社会,2006，04 [10]李霞云.服装造型设计[M].上海：上海纺织工业专科学校，2008 [11]刘瑞璞．服装纸样设计原理与技术(男装编)[M].中国纺织出版社,2003 [12]尹定邦.设计学概论[M].衡阳:湖南科学科技出版社,2001.10 [13]原研哉. 设计中的设计[M]，济南：山东人民出版社，2006 [14]吴静芳. 服装配饰学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004.1 [15]刘元凤. 服装设计学[M]，北京：高等教育出版社，2005 [16]肖文陵.李迎军．北京：服装设计[M]. 北京：清华大学出版社.2006 [17]谢锋.时尚之旅（第二版）[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2007 [18]李采姣.时尚服装设计[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2007 [19](美)多丽丝·普瑟.穿出影响力[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2006 [20]袁利.打破思维的界限[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2005