服装设计外文翻译文献

文献信息：

文献标题：Proactive Fashion Design for SustainableConsumption（可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计）

国外作者：Kirsi Niinim?ki

文献出处：《Nordic Textile Journal》，2012，1:60-69.

字数统计：英文3104单词，17881字符；中文5737汉字

外文文献：

Proactive Fashion Design for SustainableConsumption Abstract This article presents a study that investigates product satisfaction in the context of clothing. The paper furthermore presents suggestions on how this knowledge can be used to create proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption. One of the main challen ges in today’s consumer society is how to design products that encourage consumers to engage in more environmentally responsible behaviour, sustainable consumption. This paper opens the discussion on how to change current unsustainable consumption behaviour related to clothing through a visionary, far-sighted design approach. Designers can create future-oriented sustainable designs that can transform consumption patterns towards more sustainable ones. Design for sustainability can thus be a redirective practice that aims for sustainable consumption, and the ways in which fashion design can be a proactive process with this aim will be described.

Keywords: proactive design, sustainable design, sustainable consumption, emotional satisfaction, PSS.

Introduction

Products configure consumer needs and use patterns; hence, design can be said to be “practice-oriented”, creating certain everyday practices and consumption behaviour (Shove et al. 2007, 134–136). Current industrial design and

mass-manufacturing systems stimulate consumerism and the production of disposable products (Walker 2007, 51). Fast changing trends lead to consumers’ unsustainable consumption behaviour. To create a new, sustainable balance between design, manufacturing and consumption, alternative ways to create products are required to drive more sustainable consumption behaviour. Therefore, designers should evaluate how each design decision affects a consumer’s consumption patterns. Understood in this way, sustainable design can bea redirective or a proactive practice that aims for sustainable practices in consumption (Fry 2009, 53).

Higher production volumes and simultaneous growing consumption have caused an increase in material consumption (Throne-Holst et al. 2007). Ever-changing fashion trends, affordable product prices and low-quality products cause consumers to engage in unsustainable consumption behaviour, such as impulse purchases, overconsumption, short use time and premature disposal of products. The increase in the purchase of short-lifespan products results in a notable increase in waste. Currently, approximately 70 percent of disposed clothing and textiles end up in landfills, and in many Western countries clothing and textile waste is estimated to be the fastest growing waste stream (Fletcher 2008, 98). Consumers discard gaments not only because they are worn out but also because they actively seek novelty. Nevertheless, product durability and longterm use are prerequisites for sustainable consumption: i.e. extending the life span of products is essential when the goal is sustainable consumption (Cooper 2005). Importantly, however, consumers associate durability with high quality and not with environmental impact.

Emotions lie at the centre of human life, and they influence most of our behaviours, motivations and thought processes (Desmet 2009, 379). Emotions also play a strong role in consumption. The interplay between wants, needs, values, attitudes and experiences is emotionally meaningful for a contemporary consumer. Clothing and fashion items belong to the category of self-expressive products, and with such products, consumption-related emotions are important to the consumer. As Richins (2009) argued, these consumption emotions are important elements in contemporary society and especially after the purchase event. The purchase situation

becomes a strong positive experience for a consumer, but it is very short term in nature and has no connection to the experience of deeper satisfaction or person–product attachment (ibid). Through a new purchase event, the consumer can again experience excitement, enjoyment, joy and pleasure, at least momentarily.

From an environmental point of view, studying consumption patterns and the meanings of consumption is important when sustained positive emotions in person–product relationships are desired or solutions are sought to replace materialistic consumption with other positive emotional states. The design process should focus on sustainable consumer satisfaction with a product or with the person–product attachment process. Moreover, a new kind of product service system (PSS) should be developed that aims to prolong the enjoyable use time of the product. A PSS strategy can also offer the consumer new emotional experiences, which can postpone the disposal of the product; PSS thinking can thereby aim to avoid a new garment purchase, which is an opportunity to decrease materialistic consumption.

Sustainable Satisfaction with Clothing

If current unsustainable consumption patterns are to be transformed into more sustainable ones, the ways in which design can offer sustainable satisfaction must be investigated. To gain a deeper understanding of the opportunities to deliver satisfaction by design and how the enjoyable use of garments can be extended, the satisfaction process must first be explained.

According to Swan and Combs (1976), the performance of clothing can be separated into instrumental performance (physical properties) and expressive performance. Expressive performance is linked to a consumer’s psychological response to the garment, such as the experience of beauty. Instrumental requirements (e.g. quality expectations) must be satisfied first. Nevertheless, only fulfilling instrumental requirements will not result in satisfaction. Therefore clothing must also meet consumers’emotional needs if it is to deliver satisfaction (Swan and Combs 1976).

Hence good intrinsic quality is optimal for ensuring consumer satisfaction and to

guarantee the longevity of clothing. High quality means durable materials and high manufacturing quality. The ageing process of a pleasant, aesthetic garment requires not only maintaining high intrinsic quality but also the design of a more classical style and use of durable materials. Some textile materials look old after a short use time. The material might experience pilling or may look old after a few washes. Garments needing frequent washing may look old rather quickly; therefore, recognising materials that age in a more aesthetically pleasing manner is important. Studies have shown (Niinim?ki 2010) that consumers experience e.g. wool and real leather to age in an aesthetically pleasant way. Consumers report that with high quality wool the ageing process does not show as obviously and in leather the ageing process is experienced as an attractive temporal dimension (ibid.).

Consumers respect aesthetic attributes in the long-term use of clothing, and aesthetic attributes correspond to expressive performance in clothing satisfaction. Accordingly, expressive performance affects the psychological response to clothing. The aesthetic attributes that correlate to the longevity of clothing are good fit, personal cut, nice colours and comfortable materials,as well as a classic look (see Table 1). Garment tactility is important to the wearer and a pleasant tactile experience during the use situation is one attribute for enjoyable long-term use of clothing.

Table I: Attributes that enable longevity in clothing

Not only quality, functionality and aesthetics are important attributes; the values behind the product are also important to consumer satisfaction. Clothing choices must connect strongly with the wearer’s self-image, identity and values. Wang and Wallendorf (2006) have argued that consumers with high materialistic values seek novelty and evaluate their possessions more often than consumers with lower materialistic values. They also highlight that materialistic consumers have less appreciation for deeper person–product relationships that develop during longer use situations. Consumers’ materialistic values may also connect with social status-related elements in garments and possessions. Consumers with lower materialistic values may have greater appreciation for the personal meanings attributable to the product that emerge during long-term use (Wang & Wallendorf 2006). Consumers with high environmental and ethical interests place high importance on being able to find environmental value behind a product. These consumers respect credence quality attributes – local and ethical production, eco-materials and long garment life spans –and they want to see these attributes and environmental values in the products they purchase. The value aspect is most important and consumers’ value expectations should be fulfilled to create deep product satisfaction (Niinim?ki 2011).

Fashion Design for Sustainable Satisfaction

How can a designer offer sustainable satisfaction to the consumer and how can s/he propose a prolonged use time of the product to the consumer? Firstly identifying the attributes associated with satisfaction and including them in the design is the most important strategy. Secondly identifying the determinants that lead to dissatisfaction helps the designer to avoid these elements in design and concentrate on design for

sustainable satisfaction. The previous section described the satisfaction elements in clothing:

-good intrinsic quality;

-good functionality;

-aesthetics;

-values in the product, in manufacturing or the company’s values.

The easiest way to offer product satisfaction is to increase the product’s intrinsic quality and inform the consumer accordingly. However the clothing satisfaction process is complex and not easy for a designer to control. Table 2 presents the temporal dimensions in clothing satisfaction, combining those elements and attributes that enable satisfaction to emerge or even create person-product attachments in the field of clothing. These are the elements that a designer should try to embed in design if s/ he is aiming for proactive fashion, deep product satisfaction and extended use time of the products.

Table 2: Elements of proactive sustainable fashion design

The following section presents several design approaches to deeper person-product satisfaction in the field of clothing. With these design strategies the designer can aim to achieve proactive and sustainable design.

Fashion Design with Meaningful Uniqueness

Products carry symbolic meaning, which consumers use to construct their own personality and identity. Consumers use products to express themselves and want

association with the characteristics, uniqueness or values symbolised by a product (Norman 2005). If products are easily personalised, the opportunity exists to connect the product more deeply with consumers’ identity construction and to create deeper product satisfaction and an emotional attachment through the person–product relationship (Chapman 2009). This opportunity enables the product to be more meaningful to the wearer, making possible an extension of the product’s lifetime.

Design services are one opportunity to address consumer satisfaction by deeply connecting the des ign outcome with a consumer’s personal needs. By using digital technologies that enable individual design or measurements, meaningful uniqueness can be designed. Furthermore, unique design and “made-to-measure” services offer improved product satisfaction by meeting a consumer’s individual needs and preferences better thanmass-manufactured garments. The company NOMO Jeans offers computer-assisted made-to-measure jeans by using a 3D scanner (Nomo Jeans). Jeans are made individually according to each customer’s measurements. The customer can also choose the cut, colour, effects and details of his/her jeans.

An enterprise can also base its function only on consumer orders. The designer can create their own collections, produce a couple of sample collections and enable consumers to specify all orders and measurements on an individual basis. Garments can then be created based on each wearer’s measurements, thus enabling him/her to experience greater satisfaction. This design and manufacturing strategy may also help producers avoid the problem of overproduction. Small enterprises could offer their collections in small shops carrying a sample collection and obtain orders directly from consumers, allowing them to avoid extra production.

Designer Anna Ruohonen creates long lasting and high quality fashion (Anna Ruohonen). She has created a timeless collection called Black Classic, where the designs are permanent but itis possible to order them in seasonal colours. Garments are manufactured only according to customer’s o rder and according to each customer’s individual measurements. This strategy helps to avoid overproduction. Moreover the good fit of the clothing helps ensure deeper garment satisfaction.

Co-creation

One possibility for creating deeper person–product attachment is through a consumer’s own efforts during the design or realisation process. A sense of personal achievement is strongly connected to a positive sense of self (Norman 2005) and allows the product to begin to be more important to the wearer. The con sumer’s own achievement through a “made by me” approach to design creates positive experiences through the sense of effort and the opportunity to realise her/his own creative skills.If the user builds the product herself/himself, s/he acquires a deeper knowledge of the product and, therefore, has the ability to repair the product (Papanek 1995). Kit-based design and halfway products give the consumer a more active role in the realisationprocess.

One option for including the consumer in the design or manufacturing process is to offer her/him an opportunity to make decisions during the process. Consumers have shown an interest in taking part in the design or manufacturing process by using the Internet (Niinim?ki 2011). If the design is based on a modular structure and the consumer is allowed to make her/his own choices – even from a limited selection – in creating a unique style, this process gives consumers new power and a more active role.

Opening fashion field is one way to offer the consumer more active role. Lastwear is a company that offers ready-madegarments, halfway clothing (kit-based) and patterns of their fashion designs (Lastwear clothing company). They also invest in quality and offer a guarantee on their garments, which is a good way to ensure product satisfaction.

Giving consumers more power is also possible by offering environmentally-related options. Consumers may be allowed to select a manufacturing location and different materials – and be provided with corresponding prices –enabling them to express their values through their choices. For example, many consumers, especially those who consider themselves ethical consumers, would like to buy locally manufactured garments even if they are more expensive (Niinim?ki 2011).

Fulfilling Consumers’ Cha nging Needs Through PSS

The symbolic meanings of products are connected to psychological satisfaction through an emotional response. When the product no longer offers a positive emotional response because, for example, it falls out of fashion or the wearer becomes otherwise tired of it, the consumer experiences psychological obsolescence and easily replaces the product with a new one. Accordingly emotional and psychological obsolescence results in premature disposal of a product that may still be functional.

Consumers’ needs and aesthetic preferences that change over time raise the question of how to avoid the psychological obsolescence of garments. The challenge in extending product lifetimes is to achieve continuing satisfaction with the product. The PSS approach allows the creation of new experiences with a product or changes to a product to enable it to better suit a consumer’s changing needs.

Positive ways that a product’s lifetime can be extended include upgradability services, modification services and exchange stocks. These strategies can postpone garment disposal by keeping the consumer satisfied longer. Modification or redesign possibilities for quality garments allow for an extension of a product’s life span. Many websites already advise consumers on how to modify their old garments themselves and encourage consumers to extend the use of their garments. Many small and locally functioning repair and redesign studios also already exist, where the consumer can repair a damaged garment but can also order a redesigned garment made from old ones.

A design based on a modular clothing structure also offers the possibility to create services to upgrade garments. This strategy offers the opportunity to update the appearance in a sustainable way (Fletcher & Grose 2012, 82). It is possible to play with theclothing elements to create unique combinations of colours or shapes to develop a new look. The consumer does not need to then buy a new garment; instead s/he can simply change some parts or elements in the garment to have the experienceof newness.

Garment exchange or renting services offer possibilities for consumers to make

changes to their clothing in more sustainable ways. New and interesting examples of clothing membership clubs exist. By paying a monthly membership fee, a consumer can select a certain number of garments to use, giving himor her the opportunity to change the appearance in a more sustainable way. This type of business strategy has emerged e.g. in the field of children’s clothing. Consumers can rent children’s outfits and when the child outgrows a size, the parent can obtain larger-size garments from the clothing club.

Conclusions

This study investigated product satisfaction in the context of clothing and this knowledge was used to understand and define proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption. It opened views into the process of consumer satisfaction. A main issue that arises when aiming to extend the life of garments is to increase their durability and intrinsic quality. Moreover, fulfilling consumers’other expectations regarding the garment’s aesthetic and functional attributes is important to ensure product satisfaction. Finally the issue of value is most important with regard to deep product satisfaction: values associated with the product, the manufacturing process and behind the companies have to meet the consumers’own value base so that the consumer feels completely satisfied with the product.

By identifying the reasons for the short and long-term use of clothing, it is possible to find new ways to create sustainable designs that can result in a redirective practice directed towards sustainable consumption. Proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption takes these reasons into account, thus enabling clothing longevity. Satisfying consumers’expectations regarding quality, functionality, aesthetics and value is a key to extending the use time of a product. Moreover, the emotional side of consumption must be understood to provide more sustainable ways to ensure customer satisfaction.

The PSS approach provides an opportunity to extend the enjoyable use of a product and thus avoid psychological obsolescence and a garment’s premature disposal. Stimulating a sense of meaningful uniqueness and achievement through

design services or “self-made”approaches is a promising route to enhancing consumer satisfaction. If a consumer is satisfied, then strengthening the emotional bond between the product and consumer is possible. In turn, this meaningful attachment is the best way to postpone a product’s disposal. When the product or its use is somehow special to the consumer, s/he will take good care of it to extend its enjoyable use time.

The most promising sustainable design strategy is the combination of product design with service elements: PSS strategies are therefore a future path to proactive and sustainable design.

中文译文：

可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计摘要本文从服装的角度对产品满意度进行了研究。针对如何利用这些知识创造面向可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计，本文还提出了建议。当今消费社会面临的主要挑战之一是如何设计产品，鼓励消费者从事更环保的行为，可持续消费。本文采用一种有智慧、有远见的设计方法，就如何改变当前与服装相关的不可持续的消费行为展开了讨论。设计师可以创造面向未来的可持续设计，将消费模式转变为更可持续的消费模式。因此，可持续设计是具有针对性的实践活动，主旨是可持续消费，其中，服装设计可以成为实现这一主旨的具有前瞻性的方法。

关键词：前瞻性设计，可持续设计，可持续消费，情感满意度，PSS。

引言

产品需要符合消费者需求和使用模式；因此，设计可以说是“实践导向”，创造某些日常实践和消费行为（肖夫等人，2007，134-136）。目前的工业设计和批量生产体系导致了消费主义和一次性产品的生产（沃克，2007，51）。快速变化的趋势导致了消费者不可持续的消费行为。为了在设计、制造和消费之间创造一个新的、可持续的平衡，诞生了可以推动更可持续消费行为的另一种创造产品的方法。因此，设计师应该评估每个设计决策将如何影响消费者的消费模式。从

这个角度来说，可持续设计是一种重新的、积极的实践活动，其主旨是实现可持续消费（弗赖伊，2009，53）。

更高的产量和同时增长的消费量导致了物质消费量的增加（特罗恩-霍尔斯特等人，2007）。不断变化的时尚趋势、经济实惠的产品价格以及质量低下的消费产品，使得消费者不得不从事不可持续的消费行为，如冲动购买，过度消费，使用时间短，过早处置产品，等等。随着使用寿命短的产品的购买量的增加，其废品量也在显著上涨。目前，约有70％的弃置衣物和纺织品最终进入垃圾填埋场，在许多西方国家，服装和纺织品废料被认为是增长最快的废料流（弗莱彻，2008，98）。消费者丢弃服装，不仅因为这些服装已经穿旧了，还因为他们总是寻求新奇的东西。然而，产品的耐久性和长期使用是可持续消费的先决条件：即延长产品的寿命是实现可持续消费的必要条件（库珀，2005）。不过，重要的是，消费者将耐久性与高品质联系起来，而不考虑环境影响。

情感是人类生活的中心，它们影响着我们的大部分行为、动机和思维过程（德斯梅特，2009，379）。在消费中情感也发挥着重要作用。对当代消费者来说，欲望、需求、价值观、态度和体验之间的相互作用是具有情感意义的。服装和时尚用品属于自我表达产品的范畴，而此类产品，与消费相关的情感对消费者来说是重要的。正如瑞金斯（2009）认为的那样，这些消费情感是当代社会的重要因素，尤其是在购买活动之后。购买情况对消费者来说是一种强烈的正面体验，但它具有短暂性，与更深层次的满足感或个人-产品依附的体验无关（同上）。通过新的购买活动，消费者至少暂时可以再次体验到兴奋、享受、愉悦和乐趣。

从环境的角度来看，当人与产品之间需要持续的积极情感，或者寻求用其他积极情感状态来取代物质消费的解决办法时，研究消费方式和消费意义是十分重要的。设计过程应着眼于可持续的消费者对产品的满意度或与个人-产品依附的过程。此外，还应该开发一种新的产品服务系统（PSS），以延长产品的使用时间。PSS策略还可以为消费者提供新的情感体验，从而推迟产品的处置；因此，PSS 思维可以避免购买新的衣服，这是一个减少物质消费的机会。

对服装的可持续满意度

如果将当前不可持续的消费模式转变为可持续的消费模式，就必须调查哪种

设计方式能够产生可持续满意度。为了更深入地了解设计怎样产生满意度，以及如何延长服装的使用乐趣，首先要解释满意的过程。

根据斯旺和库姆斯（1976）的观点，服装的性能可以分为工具性能（物理性质）和表现性能。表现性能与消费者对服装的心理反应有关，如美的体验。工具性要求（例如质量预期）必须首先得到满足。然而，只完成工具性要求并不能达到满意度。因此，如果要完全达到满意度，服装也必须满足消费者的情感需求（斯旺和库姆斯，1976）。

良好的内在质量是确保消费者满意度和服装使用时间的最佳选择。高质量意味着材料的耐用和制作质量的高超。一件令人愉悦的、漂亮的衣服在长时间使用的过程中，不仅需要保持较高的内在质量，而且还要设计的款式更经典、使用的材料更耐用。一些纺织材料经过短期使用之后会显得很陈旧。这些材料可能会出现起球现象，或者在几次洗涤后看起来很旧。需要频繁洗涤的服装可能看起来老得很快，因此，识别以更美观的方式变旧的材料很重要。研究显示（Niinim?ki，2010），就消费者的体验而言，羊毛和真皮的老化过程比较美观。消费者报告说，使用高质量的羊毛，老化过程并不明显，而在皮革中，其老化过程随时间的变化显得相当明显（同上）。

消费者在服装的长期使用中遵循美学属性，而美学属性对应于服装满意度的表现性能。因此，表现性能影响消费者对服装的心理反应。与服装的使用时间相关的美学属性是合身的、个人裁剪、漂亮的颜色和舒适的材料，以及经典的外观（见表1）。对穿戴者来说，服装的触感很重要，在使用的过程中，愉悦的触觉体验是服装长期使用的一个属性。

表1：使用时间长的服装的属性

不仅质量、功能和美观是重要的属性；产品背后的价值也是消费者满意度的重要因素。服装的选择必须与穿戴者的自我形象、身份和价值观紧密结合。王和瓦伦多夫（2006）认为，物质主义价值较高的消费者往往比物质主义价值较低的消费者，更喜欢追求新奇和评价自己的财产。他们还强调，在长期使用的情况下，物质主义的消费者对更深层次的个人与产品之间的关系不太感兴趣。消费者的物质价值观也可能与服装和财产中与社会地位有关的因素联系在一起。物质主义价值较低的消费者可能对因长期使用而产生的产品的个人意义更感兴趣（王和瓦伦多夫，2006）。具有高度环保和道德利益的消费者非常重视能在产品背后找到环境价值。这些消费者关注信誉质量属性——本地和伦理生产，生态材料和长期使用的服装——他们希望在购买的产品中看到这些属性和环境价值。价值层面是最重要的，消费者的价值期望应得到满足，以创造深层次的产品满意度（Niinim?ki，2011）。

符合可持续满意度的服装设计

设计师怎样才能为消费者提供可持续的满意度？他/她怎样向消费者提出延长产品使用时间的建议呢？首先，应该确定与满意度相关的属性，并将其包含在设计中才是最重要的策略。其次，确定导致不满意的决定元素，这有助于设计师在设计中避免这些元素，并将注意力集中在可以实现可持续满意度的设计上。前一节描述了服装的满意元素：

-良好的内在质量；

-良好的功能；

-美学；

外文文献翻译中性化服装设计

外文文献原文+译文 原文 The study on the design of neuter clothing H ous e W Abstract Social and economic development, social thought, opening up and the progress of science and technology, men and women style presented the diversified pattern of neuter the fuzzy gender differences in style, from the beginning of non-mainstream des ign till n ow has develop ed i nt o on e of the mains t ream fas hi on d es ign style. Fashion brands have launched in recent years, the neutral flavor of fashion, neuter clothing market share of more and more, neutral fashion, with its broad group of sex leads the urban street fashion. Neutralization of free and open way of life style, gave people a comfortable and enjoyable. K ey words: Neut e r; Cl ot hing; Gender roles; Design 1 Introduction The beginning of the 20th century the rise of the feminist movement, make the neutral clothing as a kind of style into the line of sight of people. In the 90 s, the neutral clothing has used by each big brand clothing as one of the fashionable e lement s, s uc h a s dust coa t w i th a ne ut ral style, s ui ts, t-shirt s and j e ans have bec om e people like everyday clothes. Neuter clothing style is a simple, pure; reject all multifarious mincing, personalized style. As a special kind of clothing style, neuter clothing fashion has been intensified in the social life, so it is necessary for us to study the clothing neutralization phenomenon, to study its causes and the development of sociology. This article mainly from the sociological association as well as the relationship between men and women clothing and gender status in the society, which is based on analyzing the change of the study the social basis of the neutral clothing appear; Again from the social system, economic development, cultural trend and fashion designers to the influence of the neutral clothing style, etc., it is concluded that the neuter clothing phenomenon is the development of social consciousness, the sexual role transformation, the new clothing design trends are affecting the results.

【参考文献翻译】服装设计中独特性的表达.doc

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Infrared Remote Control System Abstract Red outside data correspondence the technique be currently within the scope of world drive extensive usage of a kind of wireless conjunction technique,drive numerous hardware and software platform support. Red outside the transceiver product have cost low, small scaled turn, the baud rate be quick, point to point SSL, be free from electromagnetism thousand Raos etc.characteristics, can realization information at dissimilarity of the product fast, convenience, safely exchange and transmission, at short distance wireless deliver aspect to own very obvious of advantage.Along with red outside the data deliver a technique more and more mature, the cost descend, red outside the transceiver necessarily will get at the short distance communication realm more extensive of application. The purpose that design this system is transmit cu stomer’s operation information with infrared rays for transmit media, then demodulate original signal with receive circuit. It use coding chip to modulate signal and use decoding chip to demodulate signal. The coding chip is PT2262 and decoding chip is PT2272. Both chips are made in Taiwan. Main work principle is that we provide to input the information for the PT2262 with coding keyboard. The input information was coded by PT2262 and loading to high frequent load wave whose frequent is 38 kHz, then modulate infrared transmit dioxide and radiate space outside when it attian enough power. The receive circuit receive the signal and demodulate original information. The original signal was decoded by PT2272, so as to drive some circuit to accomplish

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Vol. 3 (3), April, 2009 ISSN 1994-9057 (Print) ISSN 2070-0083 (Online) Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics (Pp. 62-72) Sukumar Nachiappan- Lecturer, Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering, Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. Email: sugumaraan@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/a912083210.html, Gnanavel. P. - Lecturer, KSR College of Technology, Tiruchengode–637 215, TamilNadu, India Ananthakrishnan, T.- Professor and Head, Department of Textile Technology, Government Sri Krishna Rajendra silver jubilee Technical Institute, Bangalore – 560 001, India Abstract Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than in one direction, When two-dimensional fabric are converted to three-dimensional garment form. In the present study, the effects of sewing of different seam were selected on different fabric and their behaviors were studied. In this study drape of ten fabrics are analyzed with three types of seams and three stitch densities. Sample without seam is a control sample and drape of seamed samples are compared with control sample to analyse the drape behavior of seamed fabrics. This paper presents a fundamental drape analysis of seamed fabrics using drape meter. Drape behavior is determined in terms of drape coefficient. The effect of seams on the drape coefficient and Drape profile has been made. Drape coefficients significantly differs between the fabrics and also between the seam stitch density combinations. Investigating drape on seamed fabrics can improve fabric end use application.

服装设计参考文献

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