服装专业文献资料翻译 译文
现代旗袍的改良
1、改良的前提
（1）为适应生活，必须要改良。当前从业人口，在现代大都市中，日见增多。由于科技的进步、市场的繁荣、人们的生活节奏日渐加快。如今的生活和30年代的那种闲适平淡相比，要火爆、热烈得多。读书、体育、运动、文艺、科研、劳动、旅游、访友、家务、工作等等。人们要生活得质高、充实、紧张、愉快。着装不可成为行动的障碍。因此，注重适应性就显得更重要。只有这样，才可以适应工作高效率、社会负担重的现实。那么，职业服的畅销和普及，就是必然的了。在中国是这样，在许多国家也是同样道理。传统的淑女型旗袍，缺少这种适应性，因此它必需改良才能有前途。
（2）追求时尚，必需要改良。当今着装观念的改变，也决定了旧装改革的必要性。人们对衣妆的追新求变，是正常的生理、心理反映。如同每个人吃同样上午的水果容易厌倦，每天吃同样一种饭菜，没有了食欲。衣服不但要穿好，更要穿出时尚。过时的衣服使人有陈旧感，现代人要求有新时代印记的时装，这也是正常的心态反映。20世纪从二三十年代一步步走来，无线电收音机已被电视代替；高耸的楼群已代替了转瓦四合院；汽车司机代替了人力（黄包）车夫，人们着装也要求有时代感。那么，旧式旗袍哪有不改之理呢。
（3）经济振兴，必然要改良。近20年来，中国的国民经济处在上升阶段，人们的物质生活水平提高，反映在着装、住房和就读等诸多方面。市场的繁荣，日趋满足生活所需，服装的高、中档价格，体现了消费者的购买水平。生活的丰富充实，购置适应各种活动的服装，被列入议事日程之中。对于晚礼服和婚礼服的选择即为明显一例，既要上档次，又要有新意，说明经济收入水平已经具备选择的条件。国外归来者，见到近年来国内的显著变化，他们积极热情地呼吁：“振兴中式服装的时机到了”。因此，改良旗袍，使之为现代人服务，已势在必行。
（4）适应新世纪，必然要改良。高科技将成为21实际服装设计、生产、销售方面发展的强大动力。未来服装对于人们生活需要来说，不仅是满足生理和安全、艺术塑造和舒适性的需要，而且要有个性化。仔细观察市场，可以发现那种大批量生产的弊端，而小批量、多品种的生产受到欢迎和畅销景况，是未来服装发展趋向的体现。其市场只有提供品位越来越高之需求。高科技作为动力，反映在服装材料的改造、生产技术和设备的革新等方面。旗袍本来就是以个性发展为特点的上档次的传统服装。过去、现在和未来旗袍一向是不可能成为大批量的产品。因此，它十分符合新世纪更加主重形象塑造的专门设计的要求。为了步入新世纪材料、技术、设备的新领域，服装业只有走改良之路，才是适时、适应、适
合，才能不断融入新时期生活之中，得到现代人的认可和青睐。从而才能有所发展。
（5）体现价值，必然要改良。有人分析现代女性不着旗袍有以下原因：
a. 认为旗袍对人体型要求过于严谨。只有一些身材比例匀称、削肩、窄腰、胸臀丰满者才为上乘。除表演台上的模特以外，普通人似乎被拒之门外。
b. 近年来，中国星级饭店的迎宾领班小姐，争用旗袍作为入选服务服装。从而扭曲了人们对旗袍高贵身份的认识，感情上与之拉开了距离。
c. 人们视旗袍为中年以上、身份高、旗帜优者穿着最为合适。完整的旗袍着装要有光洁靓丽的发饰相配，总体印象是“小姐、贵妇人”形象。为与之拉开距离，青年人虽然对身着旗袍也怦然心动，但还是以“不合时宜”为由避开了。
d. 旗袍限制了人的行动，如骑自行车、挤公交车、大步快走等都受到约束，故众多妇女难以接受。
2．旗袍如何改良
(1) 革新观念，重在感知。红样中国服饰文化，振兴中华服装。
a. 自我感知：对本民族的传统文化艺术财富要清晰明确，对服饰文化的起源、背景、发展脉络要透彻熟知。
b. 感知时代：研究当代服装业的竞争焦点，深刻理解现代社会生活，捕捉流行规律、信息。形成在民族基础上。突出时代特性的创造革新观念，既可以把握自己、自信不盲目，也可避免出现偏向。对于旗袍这种服装的认识和对其改良的决心，特别应该具备这种感知能力。
(2) 新改良，重在无形。旗袍的改良，已不是简单的形式的变化和轮廓的修补，而需在领悟其文化内涵和装饰韵味的基础上进行再创造。中国画大师齐白石先生，对他所画的内容，有如下提示：“似与不似之间”。就是指画中之虾在水中游，但画面上并未表现水，而虾之身动已表明是在水中。。所画之虾以写意之笔，形象骨肉兼备，长须摆尾活灵活现。因此，好比“此处无声胜有声”，是“似与不似之间”。齐老追求的不仅仅是“形似”，更重要的“神似”，改良过的旗袍，应该留给人的印象是：旗袍的身影、旗袍的感觉、旗袍表达的精神、旗袍的姿色。它应该不是传统的、300年前的，也不是近代20世纪的，而的现代的，甚至是21世纪的。
(3) 保留传统，研究时尚。所谓保留传统，并非一成不变，将“老祖宗”搬挪过来。而是说“改良”要求，必须深入学习，在深入理解传统的基础上进行。古老的旗袍，有它孕育、起源、发展、演化的过程，它的出现和它的存在，都具有鲜明的时代的印迹。它的呈形、它的结构、它的用色、它的选料、它的装饰以
及它的加工手段，都有一定来历、一定出处、一定的象征意义。绝非简单从事，随心所欲。因此，这种服饰才会如此有价值，才会流传数百年，才会经久不衰。
时尚是具有时间性和空间性的时髦和流行，它更具有明显的时代标志。对于它的转瞬即逝，流动的周期与速度，不许即使捕捉和掌握。为适应各个时期的新生活，不许随时研究、探讨、紧跟。现今和未来对旗袍的该娘，务需具备这两合条件，否则没有开拓，或者过于超前，其结果均不会合时宜的。
（4）引进西式，结合中式。欧美式服装早20世纪初，通过日本和各国使节在交往中传入中国。西方服装近百年来以巨大的冲击力，战局了中国的市场，与中式服装抗衡。由于近年来国际服装的总趋势，以强烈的多变换的时代流行，引导和影响着中国的消费者。因此，中式服装的发展，只有一条捷径，就是于时装结合，唤起民众，这是大势所趋。
近年来，中国流行一种“中西式”的改良服装。是一种将穿旗袍融进了西式服装的长处，将局限改造成合适的心型服式。例如：中式衣领改成翻领或无领；偏大襟改为对襟；左右开衩改为前后开衩或偏开衩；连裁袖改为装袖；盘扣改为包扣或暗扣；全部手工改为半手工、半机器制作。这种良好的思路和改革的手段，使古老的服式顿时生机盎然。
20实际末的今天，世界上流行着一股怀旧思潮，东方文化成为寻找的热点，从而激起国内一些设计师对本土民族服饰的的钟情，开始重视以现代历年理解中式服装改良的必要；重视植根于中国，建立民族品牌的重要；重视将传统与现代结合，才能使旗袍保持生命力。
在改良的探索中，一批设计师以各自对民族服装的理解。创造了一些不同风格的新作，显现出都市风光中的两点。一种是以现代审美观念和现代着装感觉为基础。引入传统服装精神，通过结构分割和服饰重新组合，突破传统服装的局限，将现代休闲风格引入中式服装之中；一种是将中国博大精深的传统文化与欧美的见解时装形式结合。为突出个性，体现都市趣味和古典韵律，选用进口面料，运用立体裁剪，满足多数消费者需求；一种是运用强烈反差产生独特效果，既选用流行面料完成民族式样，也选用古典面料体现现代服装；还有就是在保留传统服装风格的同时。渗入现代思想。注入嬉皮特征，打破原有中装布局，改变传统“老面孔”，从前卫中获取反朴归真的感觉。
多年来，各种改良尝试，渗透到各个季节、各种年龄的不同服装品种之中。取得了良好的效果。其中以女式晚装和婚嫁装最为突出、醒目。其他男女老幼的中式服装，多见于短装之中，并从城市向农村、向山区乡镇大面积推广普及。事实说明，改良适应了新生活的修要，新型的着装观念已被大接受。也说明改良唤
起了民族自豪感。
“中国风”在西方劲刮，震荡了中国人了民族豪情。青年人通过服装市场，再一次接受设计师的引导。夏季超短裙，于中式无袖紧身小褂配合；与不对称偏襟配合；与杂色小上衣配合。非常俏丽，具有无限童趣。秋冬季中式羽绒衍缝背心，与各式毛衫、牛仔裤组装，色彩缤纷，潇洒自如。一派俊男靓女新时装。一股黄土地的民族情。真正说明改良是时代的需要。
外文文献翻译中性化服装设计
外文文献原文+译文 原文 The study on the design of neuter clothing H ous e W Abstract Social and economic development, social thought, opening up and the progress of science and technology, men and women style presented the diversified pattern of neuter the fuzzy gender differences in style, from the beginning of non-mainstream des ign till n ow has develop ed i nt o on e of the mains t ream fas hi on d es ign style. Fashion brands have launched in recent years, the neutral flavor of fashion, neuter clothing market share of more and more, neutral fashion, with its broad group of sex leads the urban street fashion. Neutralization of free and open way of life style, gave people a comfortable and enjoyable. K ey words: Neut e r; Cl ot hing; Gender roles; Design 1 Introduction The beginning of the 20th century the rise of the feminist movement, make the neutral clothing as a kind of style into the line of sight of people. In the 90 s, the neutral clothing has used by each big brand clothing as one of the fashionable e lement s, s uc h a s dust coa t w i th a ne ut ral style, s ui ts, t-shirt s and j e ans have bec om e people like everyday clothes. Neuter clothing style is a simple, pure; reject all multifarious mincing, personalized style. As a special kind of clothing style, neuter clothing fashion has been intensified in the social life, so it is necessary for us to study the clothing neutralization phenomenon, to study its causes and the development of sociology. This article mainly from the sociological association as well as the relationship between men and women clothing and gender status in the society, which is based on analyzing the change of the study the social basis of the neutral clothing appear; Again from the social system, economic development, cultural trend and fashion designers to the influence of the neutral clothing style, etc., it is concluded that the neuter clothing phenomenon is the development of social consciousness, the sexual role transformation, the new clothing design trends are affecting the results.
服装设计与高科技外文翻译文献
文献信息： 文献标题：Evolution of Fashion Design in the Era of High-Tech Culture （高科技文化时代服装设计的演变） 国外作者：Galina Mihaleva，C.Koh 文献出处：《International Scholarly and Scientific Research and Innovation》,2016,10(7):2447-2451 字数统计：英文2079单词，11462字符；中文3549汉字 外文文献： Evolution of Fashion Design in the Era of High-Tech Culture Abstract Fashion, like many other design fields, undergoes numerous evolutions throughout the ages. This paper aims to recognize and evaluate the significance of advance technology in fashion design and examine how it changes the role of modern fashion designers by modifying the creation process. It also touches on how modern culture is involved in such developments and how it affects fashion design in terms of conceptualizing and fabrication. By comparing case studies, existing fashion design examples and crafting method experimentations; we then spot patterns in which to predict the direction of future developments in the field. A breakdown on the elements of technology in fashion design helps us understand the driving force behind such a trend. The results from explorations in the paper have shown that there is an observed pattern of a distinct increase in interest and progress in the field of fashion technology, which leads to the birth of hybrid crafting methods. In conclusion, it is shown that as fashion technology continues to evolve, their role in clothing crafting becomes more prominent and grows far beyond the humble sewing machine. Keywords: Fashion design, functional aesthetics, smart textiles, 3D printing. INTRODUCTION It is common knowledge that the environment we live in greatly influences the
【最新推荐】印花在服装设计中的应用外文文献
文献出处：A Dehghani. The application of digital printing in fashion design [J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2015, 16(2): 263-271. 原文 The application of digital printing in fashion design A Dehghani Abstract The appearance of digital printing for textiles printing provides a new train of thought, digital printing with the current textile fabric printing a variety of requirements of the market of printing technology, including high quality printing precision, high efficiency of printing on reaction time and the printing of the diverse demand, these advantages directly promoted the digital ink jet printing in the rapid development of textile fabric printing direction. In this paper, the design method of the digital printing design of different style and means of decoration and design method in the fabrics for summary, it is concluded that digital printing design cuttings in fabric printing, clothing apparel printing method and the application of the traditional fabric secondary design and decorative effect. Through the above research, digital printing and garment design and garment style between the relationships between the shapes, thereby further to bring into full play the advantages of
【参考文献翻译】服装设计中独特性的表达.doc
英文翻译： The unique expression in fashion design Abstract: With the social progress and people's aesthetic awareness, clothing design requirements are constantly changing, not only beautiful, comfortable, personalized for different purposes, and more and more people started to pay attention the unique design of the clothing. unique expression of the clothing design has something in common, in common, there are three factors most typical one of the means of the use of the plastic arts; is to follow the basic rules of the plastic arts; the pursuit of art content and beauty of form harmony and unity. The face of increasingly fierce competition in society, from clothing unique starting to play to their strengths, so that the costume design perfected. Key words: aesthetic sense; costume design; uniqueness; expression Introduction With the rich substance of social development, improved quality of life, the pursuit of unique clothing is also more than plus strong, the face of the popularity and unity to the mass production of clothing has become a problem to be solved in order to fashion designers. An important design point, then become a unique expression of the costume design costume design costume design unique refers to the characteristics of the presentation of the representative from the clothing on the whole, it is unique content and form unity. China fashion design unique expression as a complete system of disciplines to study the ancient times to now there, but the uniqueness of expression in fashion design is not perfect, therefore, the uniqueness of this study fashion design to express Modern fashion design is of great significance. 1. The unique overview of clothing In short, The unique nature of the clothing is the clothing unique. In a broad sense refers to the presentation of the representative characteristics from the whole of the clothing works, it is one of the unique form and the objectivity of the unity of the unity of content, costume designer on the subjective aspect of creative and clothing subject matter difficult to find words to express, but it is not difficult to make us feel unique style. The unique nature of the clothing, but also refers to the values, artistic characteristics and inherent character of a nation, an era, a genre or a person's clothing in the content and format of the show out. The unique nature of the appearance of the mind, the pursuit of the realm of fashion design in the final analysis is unique in design and positioning, the unique expression of the costume design also reflects the designer's unique creative thinking and the pursuit of art also reflects the distinctive character.
服装设计褶皱拼缝外文文献
Vol. 3 (3), April, 2009 ISSN 1994-9057 (Print) ISSN 2070-0083 (Online) Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics (Pp. 62-72) Sukumar Nachiappan- Lecturer, Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering, Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia. Email: sugumaraan@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/2215326703.html, Gnanavel. P. - Lecturer, KSR College of Technology, Tiruchengode–637 215, TamilNadu, India Ananthakrishnan, T.- Professor and Head, Department of Textile Technology, Government Sri Krishna Rajendra silver jubilee Technical Institute, Bangalore – 560 001, India Abstract Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than in one direction, When two-dimensional fabric are converted to three-dimensional garment form. In the present study, the effects of sewing of different seam were selected on different fabric and their behaviors were studied. In this study drape of ten fabrics are analyzed with three types of seams and three stitch densities. Sample without seam is a control sample and drape of seamed samples are compared with control sample to analyse the drape behavior of seamed fabrics. This paper presents a fundamental drape analysis of seamed fabrics using drape meter. Drape behavior is determined in terms of drape coefficient. The effect of seams on the drape coefficient and Drape profile has been made. Drape coefficients significantly differs between the fabrics and also between the seam stitch density combinations. Investigating drape on seamed fabrics can improve fabric end use application.
服装设计参考文献
参考文献 [1]李平.面料再造的艺术表现力[J].服装设计师,2009，10 [2]艺术与设计[J].2011.05 [3]马慧颖,肖圣颖.浅谈环保主义影响下的服装设计[J].才智，2009，06 [4]李苏君,彭景荣.三宅一生与解构主义服装[J]. 美与时代2010, 01 [5]余建春.服装市场调查与预测[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2002 [6]服装设计师.月刊.[J] .服装设计师杂志社，2008.01 [7]肖文陵，李迎军．服装设计[M].北京：清华大学出版社,2006 [8]许星．服饰配件艺术[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2005 [9]罗森.魅力先生[J].青年与社会,2006，04 [10]李霞云.服装造型设计[M].上海：上海纺织工业专科学校，2008 [11]刘瑞璞．服装纸样设计原理与技术(男装编)[M].中国纺织出版社,2003 [12]尹定邦.设计学概论[M].衡阳:湖南科学科技出版社,2001.10 [13]原研哉. 设计中的设计[M]，济南：山东人民出版社，2006 [14]吴静芳. 服装配饰学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004.1 [15]刘元凤. 服装设计学[M]，北京：高等教育出版社，2005 [16]肖文陵.李迎军．北京：服装设计[M]. 北京：清华大学出版社.2006 [17]谢锋.时尚之旅（第二版）[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2007 [18]李采姣.时尚服装设计[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2007 [19](美)多丽丝·普瑟.穿出影响力[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2006 [20]袁利.打破思维的界限[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2005
服装英语论文
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